Material

Every cloth, yarn, thread and trim a design is made on, known by its maker’s own facts and read by every engine — so the machine file fits the material it runs on.

Open PatternAI

Material record · banana fibre

Kindfabric

Fibre100 % banana

Constructionwoven

Weaveplain

Weight180 gsm

Stretch0 %

Surfacesmooth

Read byColour · Print

A name that fits more than one

You typed cotton poplin

You choose the real one:

cotton poplin, 180 gsmcotton lawncotton sateencotton dobby

No cloth is picked for you.

MaterialFibre bananaWeave plainWeight 180 gsmRead by every engine that needs it

What Material does

You choose the material before the design is made. From then on, every engine works from the same record of it.

One record, every engine

Print, stitch, weave, knit, cut and colour all read the same record, so they agree on what the cloth is.

The maker’s own facts

Fibre, weight, weave and stretch come from makers’ documents and standards, and are checked against each other.

You choose, PatternAI asks

A name that fits more than one material shows you the real ones closest to it. A fact no maker states is asked of you.

It shapes the file

The material sets the ink, the stitch density, the stone count, the gauge, the grain and the quilting spacing.

Eight kinds, chosen before the design

Pick a kind to see what it is in the trade and what PatternAI does with it.

Fabric

The cloth a design is printed, stitched, woven or knitted into.

WarpWeft

What it is

Woven — warp and weft interlaced at right angles
Knit — loops pulled through loops, so it stretches
Also non-woven, net and lace
Known by its fibre, weight (GSM), surface and stretch

How PatternAI uses it

Print — the ink class suits the fibre: reactive for cotton, acid for silk and wool, disperse for polyester
Embroidery — stitch density, underlay and backing set for the cloth
Embellish — only as many stones as the cloth can carry
Cut — laid on its grain, as a knit or a woven

Trade units, read exactly

Yarn counts, weights and claims are read in the trade’s own units, and converted only where the answer is exact.

Yarn counts

Ne 40finer than Ne 20

Tex 40coarser than Tex 20

2/40s Nesits as Ne 20

Texg per 1,000 m

Denierg per 9,000 m

Ne · Nm · Tex · denier

Yarn counts

The count systems run in opposite directions, and a plied count names the single yarn. Every count becomes one true size.

One tola

Indian legal standard11.6638 g

A bullion market12.5 g

Embroidery sellers10 g

5 tola of dabka50, 58 or 62 g

Tola

The tola

Dabka and sequins are sold by the tola, and the tola has three weights — so PatternAI asks for grams or pieces instead.

Ink that fixes

Cotton, linen, viscosereactive

Silkreactive or acid

Wool, nylonacid

Polyesterdisperse

Polycotton, reactivepolyester stays white

Fibre → ink

Ink by fibre

A press is offered for your cloth only if its ink fixes to every fibre in it, from the printer makers’ own documents.

Label claims

Pure silkby the silk standard

Pure zariby the silk standard

All woolby the wool standard

Percentagesby mass, standard condition

Standards

What a label may claim

Silk, zari and wool claims follow the Indian Standards’ own text — percentages by mass, never by damp weight.

Material in every engine

What each engine does with the material you choose.

The ink class suits the fibre — reactive for cotton, acid for silk and wool, disperse for polyester.

Embroidery

Stitch density, underlay and backing set for the cloth.

Embellish

Only as many stones as the cloth can carry.

Weave

The yarns set the ends and picks; zari runs as its own weft or warp.

Knit

The yarn matched to the machine’s gauge.

Quilt

The quilting never runs further apart than the batting allows.

Schiffli

A lace with no cloth behind it is stitched on its ground; cords held by a stitch sized to them.

Pattern cut

Pieces laid on the grain, as a knit or a woven; every fused piece gets its interlining.

Colour

Where each colour is expected to land on the cloth.

Frequently asked questions

Which materials does PatternAI know?

Eight kinds, each chosen before the design is made: fabric, yarn, zari, thread, batting, interlining, the grounds lace is stitched on, and cord — each known by its maker’s own facts.

What if my fabric isn’t listed?

Pick the closest real one shown, or tell us your cloth and we’ll add it. A name is never swapped for a stand-in.

Does the material change the machine file?

Yes. It sets the ink a print uses, the density and backing of an embroidery, how many stones a cloth carries, the gauge a yarn knits on, the grain a piece is cut on and how far apart quilting runs.

Where do the facts come from?

From makers’ own documents, published standards and textile references — each fact keeps its source. A fact no one publishes is asked of you, never filled in.

Can I give my yarn in my own count?

Yes — Ne, Nm, Tex or denier, single or plied. Every count is turned into one true size, so any two yarns compare.

From the cloth you choose to a file that fits it

Free to start. Pro and Max plans available.

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